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I had embarked on an "Nightscape Odyssey" to search
out dark sky locations in the western U.S. and to hone my
astrophoto skills. And although the Table Mountain Star
Party (TMSP) in Washington's Cascade Mountains is a long way
from Minnesota, I had selected it as a fitting launch point
for my ambitious summer plan.
A "star party" is an interesting concept, especially for
those who are not close to amateur astronomy circles. It
creates for them an amusing image of revelers eating and
drinking outside, occasionally looking up at the sky,
pointing to various stars and having a good laugh over
them.
Maybe some star parties are like this. They certainly
come in different sizes and settings, but I had never
attended a large regional star party before. The largest
gathering of telescopes and their avid owners I had attended
was probably around 20. I understood the basics of the
event: arrive, setup telescopes before twilight ends, find
your way around with dim red flashlights, and share your
enthusiasm for viewing the night sky with the anonymous
others who wander past in the dark, hoping to get a look at
an interesting celestial object. Oh, and have some cookies
sometime during the night.
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A star party is where you share your enthusiasm for
the night sky with the anonymous others who wander past in
the dark...
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The Table Mountain Star Party had the same core
principles, but it was on an enormously grander scale. The
setting deserves it. Most people think of the state of
Washington as a lush rainforest region in the Pacific
Northwest. In reality, only the western edge of the state
deserves that description; most of the state is an arid,
sparsely populated desert. Arid, but irrigated. And fertile.
The famous fruit orchards of Washington are here, and the
towns are oriented to the business of agriculture.
Ellensburg is such a town, and is nearly at the geographic
center of the state. It's the closest civilization to TMSP,
but does not generate significant light pollution.
I had delayed my departure from Minneapolis to make a
last important social event, and then on my way through
South Dakota, the skies were clear and I was compelled to
start my nighttime photography sessions. This was actually
due to an important lesson I had learned early on: if the
sky is clear now, take the picture. Who knows what
conditions will exist by the time I get to Washington? It's
the sure thing over a yet-to-be-decided situation. There
were forest fires there-- the smoke could be bad, or the
access road could be closed, or clouds could cover the
state, or a dozen other things. So this is why I spent a
night in a cow pasture in South Dakota, and then desperately
tried to make up the miles later.
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I got to Ellensburg by late afternoon on the first day of
the event. I was pleased. Table Mountain was some uncertain
distance from the town (I had a not-to-scale map), but I was
sure I could figure it out before dark. I took the
prescribed forest road and headed up.
The prescribed road was one serious road. In different
weather I might use the adjective treacherous. It was a
mountain road like I had not been on before: a single lane,
hairpin turns, no guardrails, no recommended speed signs (or
rather, just, no signs), and steep! These forest roads are
no-nonsense pathways to the top.
Somehow the single lane works. When traffic meets, there
are enough wide spots to eke past, maybe someone has to back
up a little, but it seems to work. Or at least mostly work.
I noticed occasional skid marks, punctuated at one location
by shards of glass.
At the twenty-mile mark I encountered a team of cyclists.
I was startled to have the brightly colored lycra-clad
athletes suddenly appear as I rounded a blind curve. The
road was too steep to walk, but here they were, cycling as
if training for the Tour d' France. Maybe they were. If so,
they'd selected the right road. As extreme as it seemed to
me, it was actually luxurious by forest road standards: it
was paved!
Eventually however, the asphalt ran out. A few more miles
of gravel reached a last curve whose expansive view was of a
sea of vehicles: cars, trucks, vans, RVs and tents covered
the hilltop. It was the first indicator that this was no
small-scale star party.
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The road was too steep to walk, but here they were,
cycling as if training for the Tour de France.
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Although I had arrived on the first official day
(Thursday, July 19), it seemed that everyone else had
arrived the day before. I registered at the entrance and was
ushered by a group of highly organized parking directors. I
was offered the choice of parking in the mosh pit of campers
(the field had been marked off into rows and columns of
parking territory and a few cells remained), or to find my
way to the overflow area. After a quick survey, I opted for
the overflow, a fraction of a mile further. It was out of
the thick of the action, but still had a great view, and
some room to pitch my tent and spread out a bit.
But even the overflow area was rather full. I eased my
minivan off the road into a vacancy. It was vacant for a
reason, the sudden ditch and the large rocks had discouraged
prior vehicles, but I was becoming desperate. The minivan
lurched into position. I wondered whether and how I would
get it out again, but felt I could put that problem off for
a few days. I was here! I wanted to setup camp, and setup my
equipment before dark. After all, that was my whole purpose
for being there!
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