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Crossing the Prairie
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The anxieties of daily life drag along even as one makes
an exit from it. I headed west on highway 12, a route that
could take me to Montana and beyond. The interval between
rural Minnesota towns was a consistent five miles, a day's
round trip in the days of horse-driven vehicles. I found it
annoyingly too far between these oases of civilization. Not
that I had any need or desire to stop, just that my progress
seemed so slow. As I crossed into South Dakota however, and
the distances started getting longer, I found my tempo
slowing to match. The rhythm of the car on the pavement was
beginning to seem more natural. I have no appointments or
obligations, other than my desire to reach Washington for
the Table Mountain Star Party. And even that was not an
obligation, I could change my plans at will!
Go west! Ride the road, and make my plans on the run. I
could go as far as I wanted, stop where I felt like it, and
make my way, my way. And like the title of the book
by William Least Heat-Moon, I was traveling the blue
highways. Except by the conventions of today's maps, the
lesser traveled roads are marked in red, not blue. The
two-lane roads serviced the rural business, farms and
ranches, and the segments between the small town hives of
activities became longer as the hives themselves became
smaller.
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I could go as far as I wanted, stop where I felt like
it, and make my way, my way.
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windmills, once a common but neglected artifact of an
earlier technology, had become historical oddities
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Another picture in my mind's eye was a composition of a
windmill in front of night sky startrails. But windmills,
once a common but neglected artifact of an earlier
technology, had become historical oddities, replaced by
invisible electric machines, their structures eventually
dismantled and removed from the terrain.
I realized the windmill's current status as a rarity
after thinking about how to setup the shot. I needed an
intact windmill, not near any security or residence lights,
and a reasonable distance away from any road traffic, but
still accessible to my camera and tripod. I wondered if any
windmill that I could see from the road would ever meet
these conditions. And then I realized that I wasn't seeing
any windmills. Where were they? How could the very icon of a
farm have disappeared? And just during my short
lifetime!
Eventually I did come to find the occasional windmill.
They usually hugged a barn or farmhouse, sometimes even
bearing the security lamps that have sprung up at every
rural residence in the last decades. As I drove for miles
across the agricultural heartland, I began to wonder whether
the isolated dark windmill that I needed even existed.
The sun entered its late afternoon angle. I checked my
maps to find a possible place to camp for the night, maybe I
could take my first night pictures on this trip, the sky was
clear everywhere. I was an uncertain half-hour from the
state park when I caught sight of a silhouetted windmill,
apparently a short distance down a gravel road. Some
buildings were near it as usual, but were these abandoned
buildings? Nothing but fields and pasture around me, I drove
past at highway speed. The processing in my brain finally
caught up to what I had just seen, and I moved to place a
marker at the location.
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I have a global positioning system (GPS) receiver on the
dashboard of my car, a generous gift from my mother-in-law.
With bemused skepticism that such a gadget would ever help
me get unlost, she accompanied her gift with a magnetic
compass. I'm pleased to tell her I've been sufficiently lost
to need both.
The GPS is a wonderful accessory for this trip. With the
push of a button, it recorded my exact location on the
planet. As I drive it displays a small map of my wanderings
in its electronic breadcrumb format. When I "place a
marker", a small symbol shows up on the map. The symbol for
my windmill drifted behind me on the display as I continued
my drive to the campground.
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Lake Louise is the beautiful alpine lake in the Canadian
Rockies, but here was Lake Louise in South Dakota, also
beautiful, a state park oasis in the agricultural vastness
of the prairie. I set up my tent and a small telescope and
was visited by curious campers, including a young amateur
astronomer eagerly setting up his new telescope and hoping
to try out more than his single eyepiece. I let him try some
of mine and am impressed at the skill this thirteen year old
has in locating his favorite objects, even as the sky is
still darkening.
By the end of twilight in the summer, it is actually
quite late at night, and most campers are in bed. This is
the start of prime time for me. I must decide how to spend
the few precious hours of darkness before dawn. I could set
up my big scope and work on prime focus technique, but
that's a lot of setup and everything is so carefully and
tightly packed I'm reluctant to start down that path. I
could take some wide-angle shots of the Milky Way, another
project in the works. I could look for photogenic areas
around the lake for taking startrail pictures.
Or I could drive back and find that windmill and see if
it really is in a dark setting. This is a bit of a risk
because if it isn't, I'll have spent over an hour driving
around not taking pictures. On the other hand, it could be
the only windmill west of the Mississippi that qualifies for
my composition and I will have passed it by. I pack up and
start driving.
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I cannot say enough about the merits of surveying a dark
sky site during daylight. The world somehow changes when the
sun goes down, and the more you know about an area, the
fewer surprises and hazards you will have when you later
setup in the dark. In this case I had no choice. The only
thing I knew about this windmill was a flashed mental image
of driving past it on the highway. Now that it was dark, I
couldn't even see it to find it.
Dakota skies are some of the darkest I've ever known. And
with no moon, no nearby towns, no farmhouse security lamps,
there is no visual signal from outside the range of my cars
headlights. This really was the dark setting that I needed,
now where exactly is that windmill?
I'm fairly certain that I would have given up, or at
least spent much of the night looking, had I not placed my
GPS marker earlier. My current location on the glowing map
drew closer and closer to the symbol where I knew the
windmill would be found. I turned on the gravel road and,
still not actually seeing it, drove to where it had to
be.
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With no moon, no nearby towns, no farmhouse security
lamps, there is no visual signal from outside the range of
my cars headlights.
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I had to turn off the headlamps and let my eyes adjust
for a moment. I could make out the abandoned buildings, and
then finally the tower, its outline apparent only by the
eclipsed stars behind it. I got out of the car and
experienced a feeling I often get when I strike out at night
to take pictures. It's the "What am I doing here?" feeling,
a complex mix of doubt, fear, and foolishness that must be
overcome in order to keep pursuing the image in my mind that
brought me here. And therein lies the antidote: I tell
myself, "You're this far, you might as well make something
of it." This usually causes me to focus on something
concrete, like extending a tripod, or loading some film. As
soon as I busy myself on the details of setting up, the
larger impossible context of why I am there soon becomes
forgotten.
Only to be recalled when there are setbacks in the dark.
Like encountering the barbwire fence, nearly invisible. Now
I have one more emotion to add in the mix, guilt, over
trespassing someone's pasture at midnight. There was another
bout of hesitation, this time overcome by working the puzzle
of how to get over the wire. Now I'm committed, it's too
late now, I may as well go all the way and take my equipment
into the field
I navigate the field, avoiding the cowpies and find the
windmill. Concentrating on the task at hand, positioning the
camera, focusing, connecting a dew heating strip, setting
the aperture and refocussing takes my mind off of the
unfamiliar situation. When I have fussed over it long enough
and decide to accept the barely visible composition in the
viewfinder, I open the shutter and step back.
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South
Dakota Windmill.
It seemed like I had found the only intact windmill on
the dark Dakota prairie. The bright stars of the Big Dipper
are seen above the abandoned farmhouse.
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The exposure will take an hour or more. The air is humid,
filled with the omnidirectional sound of crickets, and
distant thunderclouds on the horizon occasionally glow with
silent lightning. I suddenly have nothing to do but stare in
wonder at the brilliant sky full of stars. So many stars I
have trouble finding the constellation patterns. The Milky
Way stands out as a river of light across the sky. "Stark
raving dark" is a description I have heard for such
conditions. This is the reward for persevering through the
little obstacles along the way.
I spent the rest of the night making trips back and forth
between the car and the windmill, scaling the fence each
time, setting up another camera, making several exposures on
each until a golden crescent of moon climbed over the
eastern horizon. It was accompanied by Saturn, Jupiter,
Venus, and the Seven Sisters star cluster, a conjunction
that had been forecast months earlier, but I had forgotten
about. Too bad, I might have tried to capture it on film, it
was a beautiful scene, one which marked a dramatic end to an
auspicious first day of my Nightscape Odyssey.
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